“I made my way back to the Wedge this week to meet the latest pulse of Fall south swell. I’m in utter shock at how powerful this wave is and so late in the year, with summer already far behind us in the rearview mirror. I may not be as seasoned at the Wedge as some others, but I’m also no stranger to the place. In most years it’s back to calm waters by October.”

“So, why so late in the year, you ask? Is it global warming? Just random swells? McDonald’s bringing back Szechuan Sauce? Who knows, and who cares?? All that matters is its here, and it’s good!”

Shoot, edit and words: JacuzziSurfer